Yes, the cookie has its day. There’s also National Peach Melba Day, Clean Off Your Desk Day, International Sushi Day, enough days to feel like nonstop spirit week in 4th grade. June is even Give a Bunch of Balloons Month. I better get on it.
This month, May, marks the first-ever, Jewish American Heritage Month. Of course my mind races to food. Are we honoring the black and white cookie? Hot pastrami on rye? Actually, that’s already a designated national day. Which Jewish American food would be the mascot? Certainly, Comedian Jerry Seinfeld would do a bit about it.
Image borrowed from U of Michigan’s online library: “American Foodways: The Jewish Contribution”
Turns out, this month is not about food—not officially. It’s also not tongue-in-cheek to make fun of the racist caricatures of Jewish Americans. (Maybe I’m sensitive—-the “Jewish American Princess”/J.A.P. term has been quite the anti-semitic (anti-Jewish/people of Semitic descent) turnoff for ages, certainly when I was growing up. I think back then, as a 12-year-old with an overbite and braces, hearing that I was a J.A.P might have made me feel a bit regal, pretty enough to seem high maintenance.
That never happened and I quickly learned that it was a slur, anyway—nothing I should want to be referred to as.
I was once called a bagel if that is consolation. Being Jewish was a certain schtick, accompanied by certain food. “Bagel” was probably supposed to be an insult, but it probably just made me hungry for a toasted salt or a bialy. This national day, officially proclaimed from The White House on April 29th, 2022, is about restoring honor and understanding history, I think.
In 1654, a small ship carrying 23 Jewish refugees sailed into the port of present-day New York City. Fleeing oppression and discrimination, these courageous women and men faced resistance from the colony’s leaders. Nevertheless, they secured the right to remain and became the first Jewish communal presence to settle on American soil. In so doing, they expanded the frontier of religious freedoms that would help define the bedrock principles upon which this Nation was built.
During Jewish American Heritage Month, we honor these 23 refugees and the centuries of successive generations of Jewish Americans, who — shaped by their own encounters with prejudice, persecution, and the promise of a better tomorrow — have emboldened our Nation to stand up for justice, equality, and freedom.
—From The White House
Image borrowed from U of Michigan’s online library: “American Foodways: The Jewish Contribution”
Our newly established JAHM comes at a key time, since the Anti-Defamation League reported a 34% increase this year in hate crimes targeted at Jews. The year prior was already a record-high, so this is alarming on top of alarming.
The President goes on to outline what he and his Administration will do to combat antisemitic violence and hate crimes.
Jewish Food Writers and Notable Chefs, Bakers, Food Editors, TV personalities are almost ambassadors, especially for those who might not otherwise have a relationship with Jews or those who may only hear negative, hate-fueled bias against Jews at-large and/or Israel. We know that food breaks barriers; food, like music and any creative or fine art, has the power to inform and bring diverse people together to form broader, more empathetic and inclusive opinions.
President Joe Biden’s proclamation continues,
“Three-hundred and sixty-eight years after those 23 brave Jewish refugees arrived in America, Jewish Americans continue to help our country thrive and prosper. This month, we honor the timeless traditions, heritage, and contributions of Jewish Americans that drive our progress as a Nation each and every day.”
Jews who had left or fled Europe and had traveled to America for a new life, have contributed greatly to Women’s Suffrage/voting rights, the Civil Rights Movement, when rabbis marched with Dr. Martin Luther, King, Jr. Jewish Americans were present and working towards much of the positive change that US citizens and world citizens have benefited from. It was my own maternal great-grandmother who unionized the diamond industry of New York!
So, it’s not just about deli pickles or the potato knish, but if it was, it’d still be an incredible month.
In terms of Jewish American food writers and cooks, where to start?
A Preliminary Role Call
These are just SOME of the remarkable Jewish American food writers and chefs celebrated by diverse, Jewish and non-Jewish readers, eaters, and audiences! More to come as I focus exclusively on one maker/writer/baker, etc in subsequent newsletters!
We will CERTAINLY make a Michael Twitty fest to read up on all this remarkable chef and historian is creating. Not to mention, Gabriella Gershenon’s editorial and writing work for Saveur, other top-tier magazines, and the fact that she is co-authoring a VERY exciting cookbook that has me squealing. Leah Koenig’s been hard at work to prep and celebrate the historic Jewish cuisine of Rome. Each person listed above shares a distinctive perspective and experience—prime examples of diversity found in Jewish Food Writing.
And this is only today’s cursory role call! Imagine the makers and writers before blogs, before social media. Women keeping a kosher home, men koshering brisket, a citrusy gravlox cured in a brine with love. The recipes carried in hearts and memories of those sailing to the New World. Those out in the west, trying to make a seder in the desert, pre-Trader-Joe’s.
For an excellent dive into the flavorful history of Jewish Americans, watch this archived video conversation between Joan Nathan and Ruth Reichl, two powerhouses whom I greatly admire. I think I stay up into the night to tune in live from Tokyo. You can also click The Great Big Jewish Food Fest to watch the Vimeo.
Virtual & In-Person Tours, Philly Eats, & Resources
From PBS, we have a series titled “The Jewish Americans” which covers every arena and point of influence through videos.
Click above to view the museum that I highly recommend in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, the only museum in the US devoted to the Jewish American experience. You must visit if you are anywhere in Philly, home to one of the earliest and still-largest Jewish communities in the US. I’ve been before and it was beyond memorable. Situated on Philadelphia’s Independence Mall, the National Museum of American Jewish History is the only museum in the nation dedicated exclusively to exploring and interpreting the American Jewish experience. NMAJH was originally founded by the members of historic Congregation Mikveh Israel, established in 1740 and termed, “Synagogue of the American Revolution”.
And then, since you are in Center City, you must go to any and all of Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook’s CookNSolo restaurants— Zahav, K’Far, Goldie, Federal Donuts, Merkaz, Laser Wolfe, and Dizengoff. I’ll devote a whole Substack newsletter just to these phenomenal Philly landmark restaurants. Thank you, mom, for living in the City of Brotherly Love. Your daughter sure benefits. I am guaranTEED a visit to at least one of the CookNSolo spots every visit. (Not to mention, I’ve gifted her with Mother’s Day Pick-Up Brunches at K’far)!
What’s Next
My top-5 Jewish American Memoirs/Essays to continue the celebration of first-ever Jewish American Heritage Month, per The White House, otherwise known as, “Let them eat kugel!”
A round-up of times Jewish American Food Writers and chefs have written about matzah ball soup, hoping for clouds and not leaden balls.
The interview I am teasing you with—-a certain celebrated, deeply-knowledgable chef and food historian and moi!
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